Category:

211 images of babies from Sears, 1962-1979

5/27/2013

I'm working on a careful description and analysis of the children's styles fro the Sears catalogs, and decided to get reactions from my readers. These images (211 of them!!!) are arranged in chronological order, by year and then season (Spring-Summer, then Fall-Winter). You can view them as a slide show and add comments here or on Flickr.
What do you see? (patterns, trends, surprises, memories)

Here’s what I detect in the pages of the Sears catalogs from 1962 to 1979:

Consistent rules:

dressier clothes are more gendered
girls looking boyish=ok

Fading rules:

babies are not toddlers are not children (toddler images to come)
pants are for casual wear only, for girls
flowers are ok for all babies

Children's clothing, 1922. Drawing the lines between babies, boys and girls.

2/13/2012

Yesterday, February 12, would have been my mother's 90th birthday. In her memory, I decided take a close look at children's fashion in the year of her birth. As the third child born to a young German Lutheran minister and his wife in rural Canada, I doubt if she ever wore any of the fancier styles shown here, but family photos certainly confirm the rules of appropriate clothing for children under 7.

Babies from birth to around 6 months: long white gowns, ranging from minimally embellished to elaborately trimmed with lace and embroidery.

Babies from six months to a year or slightly older: short white dresses and one-piece rompers. Again, these could be plain or fancy, depending on the occasion and the family's budget and needlework talents.

Gender differences were introduced between one and two years, with little boys exchanging dresses for short trousers, often attached to their shirts or blouses with buttons at the waistline. Little girls stayed in dresses, but in an array of colors.

Here's a video I created for the occasion:

Babies and toddlers, 1983

2/4/2012

I spent some time this week looking over more baby and toddler clothing in Sears catalogs*, and have confirmed one of my theses about the patterns of gendering. The dressier the occasion, the more gendered the clothing. This is clear in these images from the 1983 spring catalog. The play clothes include a page each of fairly girlie and definitely boyish outfits, plus a page that are pretty much neutral. The dressy clothes are pull-out-the-stops feminine and masculine. compared with the 2000's, there was much less pink in the play clothes options.

This aligns with what many adults do: more neutral styles for leisure, more gendered for special occasions. The sharpening of the gender binary for some situations, while it is ok to blur them in others, is part of what I am mulling over as I develop my next book.

*Sears catalogs are among my favorite resources for studying mass-market fashions. If you live near a Sears store that is over thirty years old, your local public library might have a complete run of the "big books" on microfilm. If not, the best source is now Ancestry.com, which includes online access to Sears catalogs as part of their basic membership. I wish Sears had donated them to a museum or library that could allow free public access, but alas, they are struggling financially and I guess this was the best they could do.

Guessing game! Which are for boys? Girls? Both?

1/23/2012

Which do you think were boy/girl? Boy? Girl? Which were available in pink? Will post answers later this week.

UPDATE. Here are the answers:

21 is the only one listed as a boy's hat; it was available in blue or white.
19 is the only one listed as a girl's hat; it was available in pink or white.
All the rest were described as being for either a boy or a girl. 16 and 20 were offered in white only, 17 in a choice of white or light blue. The mitts (18) came in a set of two pair, one in white and one in blue).

My interpretation is that while pink was definitely a girl color at this point, blue was still considered a neutral option. I am also trying to figure out if the faces are made to look "masculine" or "feminine", but except for 19, it's seems too close to call.

Babies and bikinis

3/28/2011

My sister in the effort to rethink pink, Peggy Orenstein, has reported on Abercrombie's "push-up" bikinis for girls 7-12 a couple of times. Today she noted that the retailer has removed "push-up" from the description, though not, apparently from the bras. In my research, I also noticed the sexualization of bathing suits for even younger girls. In the early 1990s, bathing suits for baby girls were almost always one-piece; “femininity” was expressed through color (not just pink), floral prints and ruffles. In the summer of 2010, on one shopping website, which aggregates items from multiple sources, one third of the girls’ bathing suits in sizes 0-12 months were two-piece styles, nearly all of them bikinis. Why do BABIES need bikinis? They certainly aren't practical, and they can't be as comfortable as a tank-style one-piece.

Where to buy pink clothes for boys, 1927

7/10/2010

In 1927, Time published these results of a survey of infants' departments in major cities. Their question: What are the sex-appropriate colors for boys and girls clothing? My question: "Time? Really?" This must have been a bigger issue than I thought!

A Rough Guide to Infants' Clothing 1902-1986

7/6/2010

We were halfway through the massive undertaking of inventorying and weeding out our costume collection, and had gotten as far as the cabinet of dainty white baby things. Other institutions no doubt have them, too – long white dresses, short white dresses, petticoats of various descriptions. With luck, they are all well documented by the donors. We were not lucky. We were confronted with a cabinet full of infants’ clothing of uncertain origin, uncertain date, uncertain purpose and an uncertain role in our collection.

The secondary sources on children’s clothing really do not go into enough detail on infants’ clothing to be helpful. So we decided to delve into the most promising form of primary literature on the subject: Sears, Roebuck mail-order catalogs. Sears catalogs are by no means the only source – mothers’ manuals and women’s magazines often contained advice on outfitting babies. But Sears catalogs did offer the greatest amount of detailed information, including materials and prices, as well as illustrations of every garment. This guide presents the results of that research, which hopefully will provide some guidance to others in the same predicament.