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Gender Mystique

The half-size mystery solved

2/22/2017

8 Comments

 
As mysteries go, this will never enjoy a BBC production. After all, it features no bodies, no stolen jewels, and no charismatic detective. Just an aging professor, dressed in well-worn L.L. Bean basics, trying to figure out what happened to the women's clothing range formerly known as "half sizes".
Picture
Sears, Roebuck & Company Spring 1970 catalog.
Half sizes were designed for "mature figures" -- women with fuller, lower busts, waists that were larger in proportion to bust and hips than "Misses" sizes, and shorter from neck to waist than "Misses" or "Women's" figures. Half sizes were seldom sleeveless, and the sleeve seam and upper arm were roomier. Skirts were usually longer than other size ranges. Shoulders were more rounded. In other words, half sizes were for postmenopausal women. Until they disappeared in the late 1980s. 
Of course, I mean that the size range disappeared, not the women for whom it had been desired. Half Sizes were replaced by Women's Petite.

I am still tracking down the exact change in standards, but it is clear that the dimensions and proportions changed, not just the name.
Picture
Sears, Roebuck & Company, Fall, 1988 catalog.
So what? Why should anyone care? 
Here's the thing. If sizes associated with age (half sizes) do not exist, women over fifty must select clothing from the remaining size ranges based on the size, shape and proportion of their bodies. This sounds like a good thing, but there's this reality: we are not all Helen Mirren. We are also not 20-something plus-size models. Some of look like this, or will, if we live long enough:
Picture
Figure from Margaret Swisher Larmour, “A Study of Body Measurements Relating to the Fit of Clothing for 65 to 74 Year Old Women,” 1988.
And so, I wonder, how did the elimination of half sizes change the ways in which older women see themselves? As baby boom women age, what options will we have, and and what will we choose?
8 Comments
Michele
3/21/2017 02:00:30 pm

I never knew that half sizes were meant for a more mature body. That explains a lot. It's getting more difficult to find clothes that fit like they used to. It's making me feel older and dowdier if that makes sense.

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Judith
3/22/2018 11:26:22 am

I think this is why Alfred Dunner clothes became so popular for older women after half sizes went the way of the Model T. I saw it with my grandmother, mother and am now experiencing the change in body structure myself. At 77, I'm (104#) 10 pounds lighten than a year ago but 3 inches wider in the waist. I hate it. It's not the weight it's the shrinking me thinks. And lack of proper exercise. Let's converse.

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Jo
3/26/2018 11:20:53 am

My mom (b. 1922) also resorted to Alfred Dunner and jogging suits in the 1990s, and now I understand why. But I'll be damned if I do the same. At 68, I am well- but differently proportioned than a younger plu-size woman. I don't need to be super trendy or sexy, but I do want to be comfortable and not dowdy.

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Mary Beth Thompson
11/19/2019 07:18:20 am

I am, in many ways, are incarnation of my mother. She always wore half sizes as she grew older. Thank you for explaining this sad mystery

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Jo
11/19/2019 09:43:57 am

Yes, it says so much about our aversion to being perceived as "old", I think. I am inspired by the work of Ashton Applewhite, who is trying hard to shake things up. https://thischairrocks.com/, if you haven't heard of her.

Reply
Darlene
2/20/2021 06:06:30 pm

As a child in elementary school I wore half size clothes, they was very hard to find but a lady Ik had several daughters who wore half size she opened a shop and that’s where mom got my clothes. I wore husky jeans from Sears . My question is why can’t I find half size for my granddaughter? I find plus but everything is to long. Help!!

Reply
Jo Paoletti
2/22/2021 05:04:45 pm

The short answer is that half sizes no longer exist, and were replaced by "plus" and other size-related labels. But as you point out, they just don't fit the same.

Reply
Sophia Moller
10/8/2021 10:35:09 am

This is very much informative. Thanks for share with us.

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    Jo Paoletti

    Professor Emerita
    ​American Studies
    University of Maryland

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